Coming into a new home
When you purchase a kitten, it is very important to remember that the baby moving into a new home is under a lot of stress and you should be patient and understanding during this rather busy period. All cats, like humans, are individuals, so the reaction to the move and the duration of the adaptation will be different for each and every one of them.
Transporting the kittens in a carrier will greatly reduce their stress.
I advise that you do not carry a kitten in your hands, even if traveling by car. Never forget that the kitten may get scared, or that unexpected events on the road may force urgent and violent reactions. So, put the kitten in a carrier, which you will hold on your lap, if you are not the driver.
If possible, provide a calm environment without loud noises and large crowds. A cat needs a room in which there aren’t any holes, like ventilation, or gaps, as there would be under the furniture, from which you couldn’t pull it back.
It is a natural reaction for cats to jump headlong and run and hide somewhere. Also, do not rule out the possibility that the kitten may curl up in the carrier and flatly refuse to leave it. In both cases, you mustn’t forcibly take it out from its chosen refuge. Give it time to recover, to sniff the new smells in its surroundings and calm down. Keep in mind that sooner or later, curiosity, thirst or hunger will triumph over fear and induce your kitten out of its shelter.
Many cats are very scared in a new environment. Let them discover it in a smaller room, like a small airy bedroom, or any other room which you can close. Put all of their supplies in the room. When you bring your new cat home, confine other pets (and humans!) to a separate area, and carry your new cat into the starter room still in its carrier. Set it down, and open the door. Allow the cat to come out (or not) at its own speed. Leave the carrier in the room so the kitten can hide in it.
Set up the litter box with litter in it according to the label’s instructions. Check and make sure that all possible escape routes (windows, loose vent grills, and so on) are securely closed. Unplug or securely tape down all electrical cords, and remove any small object — pretend that you are child-proofing the place for a 2 year old!
- The kitten will always try to hide when frightened, so access to its chosen hiding area should be available at all times. Another important factor to the kitten’s adaptation to a new home is the constant presence of a human for the first couple of days. So it is best to move the kitten in before the weekend, when you have enough time to care for it properly. At least the first three weeks you must keep your kitten on the exact same food as the cattery.
This is a very important issue that needs to be given special attention. If you already have an adult cat, then both parties should be allowed to come to terms with the presence of a new partner without direct contact. Limit the new cat to “its” own room, from which the “old-timer” will be removed for a certain time. The smell in it will tell the kitten that it will live with a senior fellow cat. Periodically allow the adult cat into the baby’s room so it can familiarize itself with the new smell in the house. At all times during the encounters shall you keep the kitten in your arms. They may growl and hiss at each other, but that should stop after a few days, once they get used to each other’s scents. Your task is to prevent aggression, which can lead to injuries. But they should be allowed to “yell” at each other, which is their way to establish a relationship.
If you have a dog, you must make sure of its friendliness to other animals. Otherwise, psychological trauma can ensue and no mutual acceptance or good relationship can be established. Animals, like humans, may be extremely jealous and selfish.
The principle of acquaintance is the same whether it be with a dog or a toddler. Only the duration of it may differ. Dogs are more susceptible to any kind of change, so make sure it understands that it is still loved as before by giving equal amounts of attention to both.
If your house has birds, hamsters and the like, do not forget that your kitten, despite its young age, remains a predator! Whether it be today, tomorrow or any other day, it will pose a real threat to smaller companions. Therefore, you must ensure the safety of both parties.
Given all of these factors, we can conclude that there is no recommendation for speeding up the kitten’s adaptation. It can only be optimized and made as smooth as possible.
And let me repeat it, for it is important – please be patient and provide ample love and attention! Let friendship and mutual understanding reign in your house.
WE WANT TO URGE THAT:
You take the kitten/cat to your own veterinarian within the first 72 hours for your own satisfaction and protection. If the vet feels that the animal is ill and that the illness was present prior to sale, we should be contacted at once, before any major treatment is begun (except in an emergency situation)
You provide proper housing, diet, fresh water, parasite control, clean litter box at all times.
You keep your kitten on the exact same food as the cattery, at least for the first three weeks.
The kitten/cat be provided with scratching post or/and cardboard scratchboard, as well as with plenty of toys.
When confinement is necessary it will be in ventilated, of a reasonable size, and with sanitary conditions.
The kitten/cat will receive a yearly veterinary examination, including any care needed to maintain the ongoing good health of this animal. The kitten/cat will not be denied veterinary care at any time.
The kitten/cat will not be allowed outside except on a leash (under close supervision), or in a completely enclosed run. The kitten/cat will not be caged.
Due to the social nature of our Cats you must provide frequent and loving attention to the kitten.